A report email to some friends of my trip to Raja Ampat in Irian Jaya, Indonesia. The trip was from 15th December 2007 to 24th December 2007. Enjoy.
“Our journey getting to Raja Ampat was quite long. A SilkAir flight to Manado, an overnight stay, and a drive to the airport at some ungodly hour to catch a Merpati flight to Sorong. It was great to get onto the beautiful, new and spacious boat, and finally in the water.
The first two days of diving was in beautiful reefs with plenty of fish and marine life. The first time I’ve seen a juvenile Midnight Snapper, and the Wobbegong Shark which were nice treat.
But we did not get out of the water satisfied. I think, as a group, we are getting quite blase about what we see underwater, and is starting to take beautiful perfect reefs for granted. Sipadan, Manado and Komodo have all spoiled us. We can only get our fix in non-stop tank banging action and endless new species. More than a few of us were starting to wonder whether we’re getting our money’s worth coming all this way just to see picture perfect reefs and marine life.
In reflection, I realised that we needed to have a mindset change. All those people who go on to enjoy diving throughout their lives must have had this change. From being satisifed only with new experiences and seeing new species, to one that appreciates each living coral and fish as a gift. If we do not make this change, we will come to a point where we are not satisfied by any dive. Not for their lack of life and interesting critters, but for the fact that we have seen them before.
The mood improved at Manta Point, where we had the most relaxing dive to watch huge Manta Ray at a cleaning station. An easy 15m dive with no currents and decent visibility. What made the dive memorable were the huge sizes of the Manta, some clearly 4m wide, easily dwarving the divers around them.
Then the boat turned back to Mansuar island, and we started diving at The Passage. A wealth of nudibranch, and a great variety of shrimp goby kept the photographers busy. A picturesque little cavern we surfaced into with a wonder skylight brought smiles and laughter.
And then it happened, Papuan divemaster Noak darted forward and banged his tank urgently. You learn to tell the urgency of tank banging of your dive guide after a while. Noak gives a curt single bang and a brief point of his finger to show us nudibranch. This bang was incessant and his finger was locked to the water surface. I did not need much more urging to give chase, and what a reward.
A school of small eagle rays, at least thirty of them, was flying through the water at great speed. Their diamond shaped bodies formed a diamond shaped formation as they cruised at my maximum finning speed. They decided to turn around and so the rest of my dive group got a glimpse of them too.
It was a rollercoaster ride of a dive trip from then on. The next dive, we rode the drift at The Passage, an adrenalin pumping drift in the shallow channel between Mansuar and Waigeo, over an alien terrain of short sea grass. I got lost from the group, surfaced and climbed onto the dinghy, and was lucky to find their bubbles and rejoin them again. A great unique dive indeed.
This was followed by a night dive full of critters large and small, and the following day we discovered Cape Kri. Marine biologist Dr. Gerald R. Allen described the dive site as having more fish than any other site he has seen in his thirty years of diving. While I am a mere pup compared to his experience, I wholeheartedly agree.
There was no fish at the site I have not seen before, but I have never seen them in such incredible numbers. I bet you did not know that the common Sweetlips and Longtail Bannerfish school in their hundreds upon hundreds, forming a curtain of yellow and black that surrounded the reef. No photograph, or even video, could do the sight justice. Add to that fusiliers and trevally that totally blocked out the sun, and you begin to understand what Dr. Gerald R. Allen was on about. Sipadan and Manado, eat your heart out.
Top that off with a sighting of seven Devil Rays in a school up near the surface. Again Noak banged his tank, and again I gave chase. This time, only Fabian and myself managed to catch a glimpse of that rare sight.
The trip was capped by a wreck dive of an intact and well preserved P-47D Thunderbolt aircraft from World War II. A stark reminder that we were heading back to reality and the world of humans. The crew at MV Raja Ampat Explorer have kept the best for last. Giving us a mere glimpse of the wonder of Raja Ampat in the first few days, and topping it off with a grand finale that is Cape Kri.
A great and comfortable boat, a great crew of 13 serving the 14 of us, and great easy diving that nevertheless made our hearts skip several beats. So much for changing mindset, we will worry about that some other time perhaps.”
Goh Siang’s Photos:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/GS9826
Phua’s Photos:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/phuaboonwah
Phil’s Photos:
http://cluelesswfi.multiply.com/photos/album/1/Raja_Ampat_15-24_Dec_2007
Jovin’s Photos:
http://sg.homeunix.com/jovin/Beneath-MV-Raja-Ampat?page=1
Yan’s Photos:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12665939@N07/sets/72157603664710880
Eve’s Photos:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/65692100@N00/sets/72157603559142831
Story of the ditching of the P-47D
http://www.pbyrescue.com/Stories/p47_story.htm


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