Typical. Our host left us for one day and we ended up eating lunch at Pho 24, a restaurant chain that adopts the semi-fast food model like Thai Express but not quite there yet. They are all over the place in HCMC and there is two in Singapore, one at Millenia Walk. March and April are the hottest months in Vietnam and Pho 24 was air-conditioned, enough said.
Quan So 9
Address: 9 Cong Tuong Lam Son, District 1; Telephone: 3823 4735
Genre: Mixed cooked food. Zhi Cha store.
At the heart of the Ho Chi Minh City tourist area of Lam Son Square, is this humble little local Zhi Cha store.
Typical of Vietnamese diet, the majority of the meat dishes are are based around pork. We ordered a variety of dishes, from barbeque pork ribs, to braised pork skin (Sa Zham Bah). There was a fried fish cake dish that was quite unique and very tasty.The greens were deliciously cooked too.

All the dishes are marinated in their local fish sauce so the taste might not be what we are familiar with. The pork soup had an odd fishy taste that did not sit very well with most of us, but other than that, the rest of the food very much suited the Singaporean palate. A cheap and tasty meal in the heart of HCMC.
Nam Loi
Address: 43 Ton That Dam, District 1
Genre: Rice noodle with chicken and fish.
Our host dragged half way across District 1 for what he promised was breakfast that will make us cry. We did not react quite so dramatically but nevertheless this is an excellent breakfast place that warms the heart and gullet.
Situated on Ton That Dam but not on the same side as the more famous local street market. This short stretch of Ton That Dam is across the main thoroughfare of Ham Nghi. They have strange opening hours, closing between 12 noon and 2pm, which most people would consider peak lunch hour. It is a Chinese owned family restaurant (the family resemblence is there), and you can order in Cantonese. The menu is simple, rice noodles (kway teow) or yellow wheat noodles in a light soup. Into this you can add chicken strips and/or ultra thin slices of fish. We opted for both.
The chicken and fish is served seperate from the soup noodles, and hot soup is added to the chicken and fish before it is poured into the noodles before your eyes. The reason is not to overcook the chicken or fish.

Accompanying these are little pastries. The pastry tastes like Soon Kway in a French pastry crust. We ate the pastry while waiting for the noodles, but as I had witnessed an elderly gentleman, the pastry is meant to be dipped into the soup. I gave that a try and the result was incredible. The soup softened the pastry crust and melded the taste of the filling the crust together. It made the pastry tastier than before.
The soup noodle was slightly fish, but it was very light and we polished it away quickly. It was a simple and tasty breakfast food. To top it off, they serve handmade soya bean milk that has a lovely texture and quite concentrated.
Hung Ky
Address: 20 Le Anh Xuan, Ben Thanh Ward, District 1; Telephone: 8222673
Genre: Chinese claypot rice and dishes.
Hung Ky appears to have 7 branches all over Ho Chi Minh City. The one we went to is near Ben Thanh market and opposite New World Hotel, an area full of motorcycle shops.
Their claypot rice is not full of dark soya sauce like we like it in Singapore, but nevertheless, is quite tasty. This is one of the rare occasions where we had chicken. The soup is typical of chinese soups, a mix of meats and vegetables, nothing we would be unfamiliar with.
However, special mention has to be made for the claypot brinjal (eggplant) dish. It is cooked to a mush in a thick sauce with mince pork, and it was a real delight. Brinjal is not everyone\’s cup of tea, but the way they have prepared this is really awesome and a must-try.
Lau De 304
Address: 304 Le Van Sy, Ward 1, Tan Binh District; Telephone 3991 6890
Genre: Barbeque Goat and Goat Hotpot
Lau De is a growing business. It sits on Le Van Sy, a popular local shopping street, and it has overtaken three shop units in the immediate area, and is still full and busy. Some signages are in Korean, but the clientele was decidedly local.

We had anticipated eating this meal ever since one of our hosts mentioned that he would be taking us to eat \”Barbequed Goat Breasts\”. Just as Singaporeans drag their expatriate friends to eat Chilli Crab or Durian shortly after they touchdown, in HCMC, the locals take them to eat Goat Breasts. They barbeque the tissue from goat udders and goat meat over a charcoal fire or hotplate. The goat udders are quite different and amazing. It is very tender and slightly springy, a very different texture to the barbequed goat meat. We ended up polishing away three plates of the stuff, which was meant to be the starter.
The main course is a hotpot of goat meat, lotus roots, and Dao Ki (made form soya bean). Into this can be added vegetables, noodles and tofu, steamboat style. There was a pretty hostest plying us with beer and making small talk. A very hearty and delicious meal. Quite a meaty contrast to the \”grass\” we ate when we first arrived.
Xu Restaurant Lounge
Address: 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, District 1; Telephone: 84 8 3824 8468
Genre: Fine dining upstairs, Wine bar downstairs.
One of our hosts decided to take us bar hopping on our final evening in HCMC, and it started at Xu bar.
With its beautiful interior, Xu bar could be in any capital city in the world. What makes Xu special is the easy listening Jazz performances that gets its clientele up and dancing. They serve a nice Mojito too, although the house wine was not up to my friends\’ standards.
But what truly would bring me back to Xu bar is its Warm Chocolate Cake. Served with a scoop of Vanilla ice cream, the Warm Chocolate Cake breaks open to reveal a molten pool of chocolate. Mixing this hot chocolate with the cold ice cream, the sweetness of chocolate and the fragrance of vanilla, the various ingredients take the edge off the others and the result is simply divine.
Oc Gai
Address: 82-84 Hung Vuong, Ward 1, District 10; Telephone: 0903-993101
Genre: Shellfish and snails
This was our last supper in HCMC, and what a treat it was. A wide variety of shellfish and snails. Stir fried in tamarind and chillis. Spongy, springy, gooey and tasty. This is an al fresco establishment, where you sit on low plastic chairs.
The clientele include locals of all walks of life, including ladies of the night and their boyfriends for the evening. It is both a feast for the eyes as well as the mouth.

And so ends my eating tour of Ho Chi Minh City. I have also eaten quite a few times at roadside stores serving barbeque pork and noodle soup. There is not as much variety in Vietnam than we are used to in Singapore, Malaysia and Thailand, but the food suits our Singaporean and Chinese palate.
The Vietnamese love pork, so our Muslim friends might have a hard time eating through the country. Another issue I have with Vietnamese food is their love for monosodium glutamate. Ajinomoto makes a lot of money in Vietnam. Try not to drink too much soup from roadside stores, although many of the Chinese run places serve tasty soup that uses very little MSG.
Beware of the orange chilli slices that they place so casually in a dish in many eateries. Those orange chilli slices would embarrass our local chilli padi. I can see myself returning again to Ho Chi Minh City to continue my gastronomical tour. I hope my hosts have found more places by then.





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